Vinsanto

If you hear an Italian accent in the name Vinsanto (as, indeed, in the name of the island itself—Santorini), you are not mistaken. The fact is that the island belonged to the powerful trading state—the Venetian Republic—for quite a long time (1207–1566). It was during this period that the sweet Santorini wine gained its popularity in Italy. 

There are two versions explaining the origin of this name. According to one of them, the name indicates the wine’s origin: supposedly, during transportation to Venice, barrels were marked with “Santo” to designate their place of production. The word “Vino,” as you might guess, means “wine.” Thus, these two words combined into “Vinsanto,” denoting wine from the island of Santorini.

According to the second version, the name is interpreted as “holy wine” (Italian: vino santo), since at that time it was widely used by the Catholic Church for the sacrament of Communion. 

The historical name of Vinsanto wine is traditionally indicated on the label in Latin script. Moreover, after lengthy disputes with Italy over the use of this name, Greece obtained exclusive rights to it. Wines from Tuscany are now labeled Vino Santo (in two words). They differ from Santorini wines (and often from each other) in grape varieties, methods of drying the grapes, and are significantly inferior in complexity and in the level of acidity, which is so important for wines of this type 

Despite the fact that the world-famous name Vinsanto appeared only in the 12th century, the traditions of its production go back centuries. It is a descendant of the ancient Greek sweet wine “passos,” which was made from sun-dried grapes. This aromatic beverage was especially prized at symposia (the term for banquets in ancient Greece and the Roman Empire). Hesiod, in his poem “Works and Days” (8th–7th centuries BC), describes one of the traditional methods of winemaking, according to which grapes were laid out and dried for 10 days in the sun and 5 days in the shade. As you will see below, the production technology of Vinsanto is very similar to these ancient traditions 

Sweet wines from the Aegean islands were supplied to the West as far back as antiquity, especially during the heyday of the Roman Empire. As for Santorini wines, they experienced a surge in popularity starting from the 13th century, during the period of Venetian rule over the island. 

It is known that since the late 18th century, large shipments of Vinsanto were supplied to the Russian Empire via Odessa. Incidentally, the wood for making wine barrels was delivered to the island from there as well. Until the October Revolution, the fragrant Santorini wine was used in Russia as sacramental wine, but after the events of 1917, deliveries abruptly ceased. This led to a serious decline in the island’s economy, since wine production and trade were among the main sources of income for the local population at that time 

It is well known that good wine starts in the vineyard. This is precisely why the unique terroir of Santorini plays a crucial role in the production of Vinsanto. 

According to legislation, the varietal composition must include at least 51% Assyrtiko, making this variety the foundation of the blend. The remaining portion consists of lesser-known indigenous white varieties, among which Aidani (Αηδάνι) and Athiri (Αθήρι) deserve special mention. 

The harvest in this region usually takes place in mid-August. The cut grape clusters are spread out on the ground and left under the rays of the hot Greek sun for 8 to 12 days. During this time, the berries become partially dried, which is why such wines in Greece are called “liasta,” meaning “sun-dried.” In other countries, for example in Italy, grapes are dried on straw mats in well-ventilated rooms, so similar wines are called “straw wines.” 

As a result of this process, the berries lose more than half of their liquid, which significantly increases the concentration of aromas, sugars, and acidity. Just consider the numbers: to produce 1 liter of Vinsanto, it takes between 5 and 10 kilograms of grapes (depending on the aging period), whereas producing 1 liter of dry white wine typically requires about 1.5 kilograms of raw material. 

Then, the remaining juice is pressed from the semi-dried grapes and placed in large oak barrels (less commonly in stainless steel tanks) for fermentation. It is important to note that due to the very high sugar content in the must, the yeast’s activity is hindered, and the fermentation process takes almost twice as long as usual, sometimes lasting up to three months. After this, the wine is aged in barrels for at least another two years to further refine and enhance its bouquet. It is not uncommon to find twenty-year-old Vinsanto on the market, and if you search, you may even come across examples aged for forty years in barrel. This wine only gets better with age; one could truly say it is immortal! 

Despite the fact that Vinsanto is made from white grape varieties, many mistakenly believe it is a red wine. This is because, as a result of sun-drying the berries and prolonged barrel aging, it actually acquires a rich golden-orange (almost brown) color. 

This wine is distinguished by an exceptionally vibrant and complex bouquet, in which notes of sweet citrus fruits, dried fruits (figs, dried apricots, raisins, persimmons), honey, coffee, cinnamon, creamy caramel, and chocolate are easily discernible. The palate is dominated by dried fruits (prunes and dried apricots), coffee, and sweet spices, leaving an incredibly long and spicy aftertaste. 

Despite the high concentration of residual sugar in the wine (300–340 g/L), Vinsanto does not seem cloying at all. The secret is that its sweetness is balanced by exceptionally high acidity 

Vinsanto is a true treasure of Greek winemaking, and this is by no means an exaggeration. This sweet “nectar of the gods” enjoyed tremendous success not only in ancient times. In the world of modern winemaking, it has an equally brilliant career and is included among the best wines on the planet

For example, in the catalog of renowned wine critic Robert Parker, Santorini wines consistently receive very high scores and are classified among outstanding wines. The greatest triumph of Greek winemaking on the international stage was the score of 97 points awarded to a twenty-year-old Vinsanto from the producer Ktima Argyros. This speaks to the extraordinary and exceptional nature of this wine, as such high-rated wines are a true rarity.

The perfect pairing for this aromatic wine would be a variety of desserts based on caramel, chocolate, dried fruits, or coffee. However, true gastronomic ecstasy awaits you when Vinsanto is paired with tiramisu. 

In addition, this sweet wine pairs beautifully with aromatic salty cheeses, such as Roquefort.