Xinomavro is the true diva of Greek vineyards. Just as a real diva is known for her capricious temperament, Xinomavro is particularly demanding, both during cultivation and in the winemaking process. However, the results are definitely worth the effort! With proper care, this variety can produce powerful, multifaceted, and profound wines with a captivating complexity of bouquet that can rival even the most seductive wines of the Old World. Together with "Agiorgitiko", Xinomavro is rightfully considered one of the noblest black indigenous Greek varieties.
Because of its complex character, high quality, and impressive aging potential, Xinomavro is often compared to Italy’s Nebbiolo—the star of the Piedmont region.
Xinomavro wines have found admirers among wine connoisseurs who do not seek easy paths. They are characterized by powerful (often aggressive) tannins, high acidity, and a rich bouquet. In addition to red dry wines, Xinomavro is also used to produce still rosé and white wines (using the blanc de noir method), sparkling wines (both white and rosé), as well as sweet wines.
You can get to know the diva of Greek vineyards, the Xinomavro variety, on a wine tour
"Xinomavro" translates from Greek as "sour-black," even though the grape’s skin color is not particularly intense.
This variety was grown on the mountain slopes of Central Macedonia as far back as the Macedonian Kingdom, and possibly even earlier. Today, just as in ancient times, the “sour-black” grape is still primarily planted in the vineyards of northern Greece. The main wine region long associated with Xinomavro is the area around the city of Naoussa. Here, this variety has been cultivated for centuries, and it is believed that Naoussa is where Xinomavro reaches its ideal ripeness. The vineyards in this region are located on the slopes of Mount Vermio at elevations from 100 to 400 meters above sea level. The mountain range protects the vines from northern winds and shields them from the scorching midday sun.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the vineyards of Naoussa were devastated by an overseas scourge—phylloxera. As a result, desperate farmers began uprooting the dying vines and planting peaches instead. The vineyard area shrank from 2,200 hectares to just 50 hectares. Restoration only began at the end of the 1960s. By that time, plantings of Xinomavro had survived only in the mountains near Naoussa—in the Amyndeon region, where the vines were saved from phylloxera thanks to sandy soils (which this pest cannot tolerate).
The revival of local viticulture was initiated by Yiannis Boutaris. He encouraged local farmers to replant vineyards, and in 1968, he established his first Xinomavro vineyard covering 52 hectares. For the scion (the upper grafted part of the plant, i.e., the grape variety itself), cuttings from Amyndeon were used. As for the rootstock (the root system and lower part of the trunk), after the epidemic, American rootstock became standard throughout the Old World, since only it is resistant to phylloxera
Xinomavro is a tough grape that demands total dedication and careful handling from the winemaker. Until recently, producers used traditional vinification methods. Old-school Xinomavro wines are marked by high acidity and rough tannins that remain firm even after years of aging. The bouquet is dominated by aromas of tomato, olive, strawberry, and leather
Recently, winemakers have adopted a more modern approach, and Xinomavro wines have taken on new dimensions. Wines of the so-called new school are characterized by deeper color, less aggressive tannins, and a vibrant bouquet (with red berry aromas coming to the forefront). Interestingly, despite this significant progress, professionals believe that the potential of this variety has been realized by only 30–40%
Classic red Xinomavro can be called the perfect wine for meat lovers—it pairs beautifully with lamb, beef, and pork dishes. It is especially well-suited to meats braised in tomato sauce. As Xinomavro ages, its bouquet becomes richer and more complex, with notes of tobacco, earth, and truffle. These wines also pair well with more refined dishes such as game meat (for example, wild boar in prune sauce), mushroom risotto with truffle, and various aged yellow cheeses (like 5-year-old Graviera from Naxos).
Rosé Xinomavro pairs wonderfully with seafood prepared in red sauce. It can also be served with salads that include sun-dried tomatoes and feta cheese.
White wine from this variety pairs well with mussels, grilled squid stuffed with cheese, and chicken with lemon.
Sparkling Xinomavro is very versatile and pairs equally well with seafood (especially shellfish) or pasta, as well as with a strawberry tart
The largest area of Xinomavro vineyards is located in northern Greece. The main wine-producing regions cultivating this variety are Naoussa, Amyndeon, Goumenissa, and Rapsani. All of them are recognized as wine zones with PDO (Προστατευόμενη Ονομασία Προέλευσης, i.e. “Origin Controlled Name”, similar to the French AOC or Italian DOC).
Naoussa and Amindeon produce varietal wines, so if you read ΠΟΠ ΝΑΟΥΣΑ (PDO NAOUSSA) or ΠΟΠ ΑΜΥΝΤΑΙΟΝ (PDO AMYNDEON) on the label, you can be sure that it is a purebred Xinomavro. Curiously, the only Greek rosé of the POP category is produced in Amyndeon. It is characterized by fragrant floral aromas mixed with sweet notes of unripe red berries.
The wines ΠΟΠ ΓΟΥΜΕΝΙΣΣΣΑ (PDO GOUMENISSA) and ΠΟΠ ΡΑΨΑΝΗ (PDO RAPSANI) are blends of Xinomavro with other autochthonous varieties that soften its ruff character.
Not long ago, the "Winemakers of Northern Greece" association decided to draw attention to Xinomavro, as it is the region’s most important red grape variety. Thus, in 2019, International Xinomavro Day was established. From now on, this holiday is celebrated on November 1st, as this is when the grape harvest is fully completed.