Undoubtedly, retsina is the most distinctive Greek wine, as pine resin is added during fermentation, giving the drink its unusual flavor. It has devoted fans and fierce critics, but it definitely leaves no one indifferent.
You can taste this unusual drink during a wine tour.
A similar resin wine was known as far back as ancient times, with a history spanning over 4,000 years. In those distant days, clay amphorae were used for the fermentation and storage of this drink. However, it turned out that under such conditions, the wine could not be stored for long, as oxygen easily penetrated the porous walls of the vessel and caused oxidation. To protect the wine from the harmful effects of oxygen, the inner surface of the amphorae began to be coated with a layer of pine resin. The narrow neck was sealed with a sponge or coarse cloth and hermetically closed with the same material. In the hot Greek climate, the resin came into contact with the wine and imparted a unique taste and aroma, which, over time, became beloved by the people of the Mediterranean.
The tradition of producing and consuming resin wine has survived in Greek culture through the centuries and has survived to this day. For many decades, retsina was an everyday wine for Greeks, for which there were no social distinctions. It was served both at Sunday family dinners and in noisy, smoky taverns.
In the 1950s, producers began bottling retsina (until then, it had been stored in barrels), and in the 1960s, demand for this drink increased significantly. Unfortunately, this led to a decline in quality. The fact is that the cheapest grapes were used to make retsina, resulting in low-quality wine with low acidity and high alcohol content. To cover up and mask its shortcomings, more and more resin was added. Thus, this traditional wine acquired a bad reputation. Nevertheless, its popularity hardly diminished—retsina remains the best-selling people's wine to this day. And this is not surprising, since it is very affordable: 2–3 euros per bottle (it is usually bottled in 0.5-liter bottles).
But time goes on, and over the past decade, a new generation of winemakers has turned its attention to this underrated product and is striving to take it to a new level. Thanks to their experiments, you can now find retsina on wine shop shelves that can, without hesitation, be called quality wine.
According to EU legislation, retsina is classified as a "wine with a traditional appellation." This means that its production is permitted only within the territory of Greece and nowhere else. Although different grape varieties are now used in the production of this drink, only retsina made from the Savatiano and Roditis varieties has the right to be labeled as "wine with a traditional appellation"
In modern times, Aleppo pine resin (Pinus halepensis) is used to make retsina. It is added to the must during fermentation, and the intensity of resin aromas depends on both the quantity of resin and the duration of its contact with the fermenting wine. After fermentation, the resin is removed by filtration, and the retsina is bottled. By law, the amount of resin added must not exceed 1% of the total (that is, up to 10 grams per liter of wine). Recently, there has been a trend toward reducing this amount, which has led to an increase in product quality.
The resin gives the wine its distinctive, unique flavor and, to some extent, provides protection against oxidation by forming a thin film of pine essential oil (turpentine) on the free surface of the wine.
Most often, resin wine is white, but sometimes a rosé version can also be found. The main white grape variety used in the production of retsina is Savatiano. Traditionally, the gray variety Roditis is also used (such varieties are called "gray" due to the slightly dark color of the berries). However, modern Greek winemakers are increasingly experimenting with other varieties to create this traditional wine. It turns out that Assyrtiko is ideally suited for its production, taking this long-considered low-quality product to a high level. In addition, Muscat of Alexandria is often used, giving the drink bright aromas.
High-quality retsina can be recognized by its delicate resin aroma, which does not overpower the grape’s own aromas. It is characterized by balsamic notes such as rosemary, bay leaf, mastic resin, pine, and a pleasantly bitter, refreshing aftertaste. In good examples, these aromas do not mask the varietal fruit aromas of the grapes, which are most often citrus notes like lemon and grapefruit.
In Greece, there is a common practice of mixing this unpretentious wine with various carbonated beverages, most often combining retsina with Coca-Cola.
This traditional wine pairs beautifully with a wide variety of Greek dishes. It is a perfect match for seafood, such as grilled octopus or calamari, mussels in their shells, and more. Retsina can also be confidently served with small fish like gavros (anchovy) or sardines. During the summer, one of the favorite appetizers at the Greek table is deep-fried zucchini and eggplant, served with tzatziki—a yogurt sauce with plenty of garlic. Thanks to its pronounced aroma and flavor, retsina stands up well even alongside dishes that feature garlic in their recipes.
Moreover, resin wine can also be served with meat dishes—not just chicken. You can even pair retsina with pork roast or rustic sausages.